I was using the WordPress application on my iPad to draft this, and in a flurry of fingers, accidentally published it last night before it was complete. I am sorry for the extra publish.
While sitting on the last leg of my return flight to NYC, I spent some time thinking of all the things I wish I knew before I arrived in India. Being a people watcher, I learn quickly, and adapted the lessons as they became clear to me.
Everyone is going somewhere
Traffic – In the densely populated areas, the noise of horns was constant. It’s not rude to honk, it’s a way to signal vehicles that you are overtaking them. The range of transportation alternatives has people walking, riding bicycles, scooters, and motorcycles. Driving auto rickshaws, cars, vans, and large vehicles. This provides a range of speeds, and anyone can be anywhere on the road. Pedestrians use the roads, because the sidewalks are either taken over by the stores as display space, have been destroyed, or just don’t exist.
On the open roads, the traffic moves faster, with a little less honking. People being overtaken in cities accept the honking, in more remote areas, I observed lots of “stink eye” aimed at our driver from the locals.
In spite of the chaos, I didn’t see any serious collisions. The one time I had to cross a street, I asked one of my local friends I was with to hold my arm.
Air quality – Bicycle usage is dropping in some cities, and rising in others. The Indian government subsidizes fuel, so the artificially low price provides an incentive to use fossil fuels as transportation energy. As a result, the air quality is horrendous in the populated areas. There must be atmospheric inclusions that trap the smog, because I could see the layer of grime covering Pune. One evening I woke up having difficulty breathing. As an asthmatic, I rarely go anywhere without my rescue inhaler. I used it that night. It’s hard to breathe when it feels like a foot is on your chest.
Hospitality – There’s an Indian saying that guests must be treated as gods. People you have a relationship with will live up to this creed. To the point of discomfort for most westerners I know. Merchants and most vendors are not your friends, and you will need to be on your guard in negotiating.
In France you shouldn't pour your own wine. In India, don't serve your own food.
Food manners – Most people eat with their hands. They use their right hand to tear some nan (bread), and then scoop up food with it. Their left hand is used for serving food with a serving spoon, and drinking water. With this in mind, I’d visit the washroom on my way to meals, and use the paper towel to open the door. Paper towels aren’t always available, there may be a community towel with a couple of weeks worth of hand drying residue on it. This is a sign you should tuck in your shirt to dry your hands.
Sharing water – Don’t mouth your water bottle. Water is poured into your mouth, avoiding lip contact with the container. When I first observed people sharing water, I missed this nuance, or why one would share water. On my first long trek I saw why. As we came to the end of the trek, we came across many people who had run out of water. We were able to provide them with water so they could get back down the mountain. Without swapping germs.
No is yes – I learned this from reading Moghul, a historical novel based in the 17th century. In the west, we shake our head side to side when we say “no”. In India, this side to side motion, with a little nuanced lift at each side, means “yes”. My advice is to not use your head to signal “no” in a restaurant. You’ll just get more food in the Thali restaurants. A hand over the bowl, or a verbal “nehi” will work much better.
Beggars – Do what the locals do. Ignore the beggars. They may be persistent, but if you provide even the slightest acknowledgement they will hound you.
Cash is king – Credit cards aren’t used much in India. Visit a Travellex store before you leave home. Check-in using Four Square or Yelp, and they won’t charge a transaction fee. I’d get $250 US per week changed to rupees. This will give you ample cash for most business trips where your hotel accepts credit. You can also negotiate with cash, a credit card is a sign you have lots of money. To convert rupees to cash, double the rupees, add 10%, and then drop two decimal places. So 10,000 rupees is (10,000 x 2)1.1 = 220[00], or 220 dollars. Practice, or you will be overwhelmed.
Have a plan to disengage – On one walk a local guy timed his stride to get next to me. The conversation started out fine, and I put my NYC antenna on low sensitivity. After a little bit, he began to ask what I would consider prying questions, and then went into how he needed a job. I certainly had empathy for his plight, but didn’t have a job for him. As we approached an intersection, I pointed my arm right, and asked “Are you going that way?”.
He said he was, and began to make the turn. I said “oh, I’m going left. Nice chatting with you, hope you find something soon.” I then cut a quick left. He was caught by surprise, and I was able to continue on my way.
Remove all judgments – Just because you have regular garbage pickup, municipal employees to empty trash cans, traffic lights that work, lines on the road people adhere to, constant access to eating utensils, and a whole host of other modern conveniences, that doesn’t mean other people are any less human if they don’t have all of this. Go with the flow, monitor your inner voice, and look for the positive side of all issues. You will enjoy the cultural experience much more.
Be responsible for yourself – Declining to eat, drink, or touch something that makes you uncomfortable is perfectly acceptable. It’s okay to say “no”. Use your common sense, and don’t take unnecessary risks.
I’m sure I’ll think up more items, and will add in the comments. If you have any to add, please leave them in the comments. Do you like this post?
